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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.